Sunday, May 11, 2014

This is what lunch at the number 1 restaurant in the world looks like

So last year when we came to Copenhagen we had booked lunch at what was then the number 1 restaurant in the world only to have them give a restaurant of diners food poisoning and we instead found ourselves eating at the number 2 restaurant. Well this time around we booked number two, only for it to be promoted in the weeks leading up to the reservation. 20 courses, and almost as many glasses of wine later, here is what the food looked like.
We started with red currant and lavender
Next up was a Nordic coconut. It was essentially a warm broth inside the beetroot.
What is lunch without some fried moss?
Elm seeds and yeast (a reprise from last years lunch)
Flower tarts. This was one of my top two courses for the day.
Pickled and smoked quail eggs.
Green asparagus and scallops. The asparagus themselves were cold and the scallop fudge was almost frozen.
Caramelised milk and cod liver.
White cabbage and samphire "sandwich".
Aebleskiver, lovage and parsley. These were my other fav. They are Danish doughnuts and the center was cooked greens.
Lumpfish toast. Mmmmmm duck fat.
Burnt leek and cod roe (another respirsal and one we were very happy to see again).
Shrimp and ramson. They were like little ravioli. Almost too pretty to eat.
White asparagus, black currant leaves and barley.
Beef tartar and ANTS.
Beetroot, sloe berries and aromatic herbs.
Egg and fresh greens (the salad course).
Turbot and nasturtium with cream and wood sorrel
Rhubarb and sorrel with creme fraiche and Spanish chervil.
Armenia berries and sol.
Happily, the chocolate covered pork fat made a come back with the coffee. Can't think of a more perfect way to end a meal than chocolate covered pork fat...

Thursday, May 1, 2014

The hills are alive - with the sound of off key singing

Greetings from Salzburg, Austria. Just realised I wrote that out of habit - after starting every postcard I wrote tonight with that line...

Where to start, well I think starting at the very beginning would be very apt for this post, as it is a very good place to start (if that went over your head you may want to stop reading now).

From Zurich I headed to Vienna, but as I am headed back there tomorrow I will save that for another post. This is all about Salzburg. The city itself is quite beautiful.


Lots of nice, high vantage points to get a good look at the old city.


Like many cities in Europe, there is a love bridge - where you put the initials of yourself and the one you love on a lock, lock the key to the bridge and throw the key into the water, locking your love forever (might need to learn to scuba dive if you ever break up - that or invest in bolt cutters).


There also seems to be an obsession with unicorns in the sculpture in this town...


Salzburg as you may know is famous for three things. Mozart was born and raised here, this is where they filmed the movie The Sound of Music, and this is where the guy that created Red Bull is from. If anyone is interested, the Red Bull HQ looks like this


I headed off on a Sound of Music tour of Salzburg and surrounds (as you do). There were many important historical sights to see - like the gazebo. The one where Liesel sings "16 going on 17". Now it used to be, as I had hoped to do, that you could skip around on the seats and dance just like Liesel does in the movie. Sadly people kept falling off and breaking a leg, so now they enclose it in glass and keep you out. Bah humbug. Turns out Liesel herself did an ankle filming the scene and it wasn't as easy as it looks.



We visited the church where (spoiler alert!) the wedding is held at the end of the film.


One very creepy fact about the church - on the alter there are five mummified corpses on display. You can currently only see four (the fifth is covered by Jesus at Easter). Two men and two women. They were apparently gifts from Rome and have been there for about four hundred years. See if you can see them in this picture.


We also headed out to the lakes to see where some of the outdoor shots were done. How's this for a spectacular set for the opening shots of the film. Turns out this is the same village where Mozart's mother was born.


e also went to St Peter's church. It was this graveyard that was used for the scene where they hide from the Nazis at the end of the film.


Speaking of the nazis - interesting piece of trivia about the film - remember at the end when they are going up over the mountains to Switzerland? In reality, had they climbed in that exact spot they would have been toast. That was filmed on the Bavarian Alps (the border between Austria and Germany) and was in fact filmed only a short distance from Eagles Nest - aka Hitler's summer home. So they would have been realllly busted.

We learned a lot about the real Von Trapp family as well. Turns out one of the children they had after they got married was a missionary in PNG for many years (and adopted a son whilst she was there). We even went past the home of the real Von Trapp family. When they left Austria (for America in reality) Himmler actually took over the residence and went as far as to carve swastikas into the Von Trapps furniture. Apparently at one point Himmler and Hitler even hosted a little weekend getaway with Mussolini at the house during the war. The allied forces regained control of the house at the end of the war and in a strange twist two of the Von Trapp children (who fought as Americans in WWII) were sent there to help secure it and managed to convince the allies to hand it back to the family. These days it is a B&B and you can stay the night there. So, this is what the real thing looks like.


And this is the version from the movie (well, one of them, they used two villas for the film). The lake in front of this house was where they filmed the scene where the boat capsizes and Maria and the children end up in the water.


Throughout the entire tour the soundtrack was played in the van, and singing was strongly encouraged. I had some difficulty containing my laughter when our driver was very loudly, and badly, singing along to Do Re Mi, and when he got to the part about "once you know the notes to sing, you can sing most anything" he totally flubbed the words. Repeatedly. Turns out Maria was wrong and you need to know more than the notes to sing along. Like the words.

There was also a customary trip to Mozart's house.


Creepily they have locks of his hair on display.

I have tried a few of the local dishes whilst here. Everything appears to be of a similar colour pallet - beige/brown. There has been asparagus with hollandaise sauce


Some apple strudel


And of course a schnitzel


Had to have the schnitzel tonight, could not bring myself to eat their fish selection after spying this on the kinder menu (not just any fish is being served, but NEMO!).


But then again they even shape their bread like cute animals here...


Back to Vienna tomorrow and I think that my first job when I get there is to buy some new socks...



Sunday, April 27, 2014

How to destroy a snowman

I am about to take my 9th flight in 10 days. I am clearly nuts. Am currently in Zurich airport, so let's backtrack a few days.

After a rather eventful flight from Port Moresby to Australia thanks to some rowdy mining types, I made it to Sydney for leg one. It was 36 hours of personal admin, cupcakes, haircuts and a concert. We all know I have no luck with hairdressers. This time around when styling my hair she told me that she could "straighten it to be quite edgy - like Katy Perry wears hers". Now this is a step up from the time the hairdresser in Beverly Hills styled my hair like Justin Beiber - but I didn't think that Katy Perry was quite who I wanted to emulate given I was about to head to a John Mayer concert. That aside, John was the highlight of Sydney. Awesome as always - though everyone in the crowd was saying the same thing as me "is he okay? He looks really thin". I'm talking Matthew Perry with a pill addiction thin. Hopefully it is just Katy Perry withdrawal...

The downside of my trip to see John was that it was combined with a 6am takeoff the next morning - so rather than sleep, I think I had a mere nap that night. As always when I fly on Emirates I embarrassed myself in front of the cabin crew - this time as a result of eating a too spicy for me curry during the lunch service. I was crying so much you would have thought I was watching Beaches on a loop for the 14 hour trip.

Eventually I made it to Zurich. Cold, grey, rainy Zurich. Saturday was spent wandering around making the most of the breaks in the rain. It was on this wander that I discovered the Boogg.


Yes boys and girls that is a snowman (Boogg) on top of a giant bonfire. Turns out for well over 100 years the good people of Zurich, on the third Monday in April, set this baby alight and watch it burn. But poor old frosty doesn't just get set on fire. In the olden days they would pack him with explosives before setting him alight. These days they 'only' use fireworks, not explosives. It is like a Groundhog Day type tradition. If the Boogg burns quickly, it will be a good summer. If he suffers and takes a long time to burn, summer will be bad.

He gets parades in his honour as well. Today was the children's parade. My German sucks, but I think they were doing tradition dress over the years (although where the baton twirlers fit in between 1885 and 1905 is beyond me). Most of the kids were happy in their cute costumes. Except the kids dressed as cows. They looked sad.


There were marching bands too. My fav was the one playing Eye of the Tiger. The parade had everything - even a piano accordion.


There were even camels, and alpacas.


The children showed off their hunting skills.


The finale of the parade was the Boogg himself - being led by a guy that looked like a Vladimir Putin lookalike executioner...seriously, that could be Putin.


This guy was at the parade too - I have no idea who or what he is...


There was also a little field trip to the Rhine Falls.


We had to take a little boat to an island and climb up the steepest and slipperiest flight of stairs in Switzerland, whilst trying not to get knocked down the stairs to imminent death by pushy Italian tourists. I am still amazed I made it out alive.


Have had many an opportunity to enjoy the local chocolate. For some reason eating chocolate shaped like a bug is all the rage. This little dude was super tasty (he'd wanna be given what he cost!).


The Boogg featured heavily in all the chocolate stores as well. Everyone had cakes in his honor.


Have also discovered a new delicacy here in Zurich. Turns out the cronut is old news, we have moved onto the duffin.


Next stop - Vienna - to see my three fav temporary Austrians.